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Bralterations- Cups

6 May

This week I took some orders home to work on. There were a couple of bustiers and a variety of bras that needed cups in the mix.  Sew-in cups can be used to fill up space, even things out, or just to give a garment a more rounded look.

These are three of the orders:

The one at the top is for a customer who had a double mastectomy with reconstruction. With reconstruction, no one ever fills out the apex of a bra. I can fix that with a hand dart or by sewing in cups. It is really hard to find non-underwire moulded cup bras in a 40C so we decided to make one by sewing in some DDD cups.

This kind of alteration also works for people who need a moulded bra but one is not made in their size. Or if they have nippleitis.

The black bra is for a customer who has about a size and a half difference between breasts. We fit the fuller side and built up the smaller side with a push-up pad sewn upside down.  I would say that 99% of women have a size difference between sides. Some women don’t care, and for the ones that do care, I sew a dart on the smaller side.  Darts are super common anyway because most people don’t fill up the space at the top of a bra, but thats a different subject all together. Since there was a big difference and she was self-conscious  about having the same projection on both sides, the pad was the way to go.

The bra on the right is for a customer who has had a lumpectomy and is more comfortable in a non-wire soft bra [she’s older]. I sew the pads in on the one side, and this gives her enough roundness to match her left side.  This kind of soft cup bra is kind of a pain to work with because the cup is a double layer of microfiber. It takes longer to sew the cup in because you have to be extra carefull about catching layers and the shell layer always has wrinkles after the lining layer  is sewn.  To fix this, the customer has to come in for another fitting to have the excess fabric pinched out and hand-darted.  Nobody likes coming in again and having to wait another week or so for alterations!

So, not all my posts will be like this but I wanted to share what I do for a living!!!  Everyone always asks “What do you do all day!?!?!”, “You can alter bras? Why?” And I thought that this could be an interesting forum to explain what I do and how I do it.

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